3 common 3D printing problems and solutions（next）
Date of release:2018-11-12 Author: Click:
1. Model non-stick hot bed
Your model prints very well this second, but as soon as you turn around, the nozzle has towed the model away. The consumables begin to curl after they are ejected, and they look more like colored graffiti than the beautiful model you expect.
The key to sticking the hot bed is to find the correct setting for printing the first layer. For the correct first level setup, you must do the following:
Adjust the hot bed level: If the distance between the nozzle and the hot bed is not equal, the first layer of printing will not stick well to the hot bed. This is the importance of the hot bed level. Adjust step by step according to the hot bed level adjustment until the hot bed is leveled.
Adjusting the start of printing is the height of the Z-axis: even if the hot bed is adjusted horizontally, it must be ensured that the distance between the nozzle and the hot bed is appropriate for the first layer of printing. It can be adjusted manually or by the slicing software. Manual adjustment requires moving the nozzle to the middle of the print bed and zeroing the Z axis. The nozzle can neither touch the hot bed nor be too far away from the hot bed. A preferred condition is that when the consumable is extruded from the inside of the nozzle to the hot bed, the consumables on the hot bed are not cylindrical but have been crushed. On this basis, adjust 0.05mm each time, knowing that the most suitable height is tried.
Adjusting the hot bed temperature: The purpose of the heated bed is to create a more uniform temperature for printing. When the consumable comes out of the nozzle, it is very hot. If it is placed on a cold surface, it cools too quickly, it shrinks and may cause the base to stick. PLA recommended heating bed temperature 35 ~ 70 ° C, ABS between 90 ~ 110 ° C.
Use Kapton tape or glue: Help the first layer stick to the hot bed with some small tools, including KAPTON tape, glue or a layer of polyimide tape. If you still can't stick with KAPTON tape, you can apply a thin layer of glue on it. If the KAPTON tape is lifted or torn when the model is printed, remove it and re-attach the KAPTON tape the next time it is printed.
2. Plastic overheating
As discussed above, when the plastic comes out of the extruder and cools too quickly, it can cause warpage and cause poor adhesion. If the plastic does not cool fast enough, it can result in poor print quality and an indeterminate appearance. If a good balance is found, it will ensure that the model can stick to the hot bed, and the extruded consumables will not overheat and affect the curing.
Reduce print temperature: If the printed model looks rough, try lowering the print temperature by 5-10 °C. This will help your model cool down better and see clearer details after molding.
Increasing the speed of the cooling fan: The cooling fan helps to cool the print layer before the molten print layer bonds to the underlying print layer and changes the print shape. Some printers have already set the cooling fan settings when processing model slices, and some require manual settings. You can try to cool the print layer with a regular cooling fan or a cooling fan.
Reduce print speed: Reduce print speed. You can have enough time to cool or stick the hot bed before printing on the next layer. The magic is that reducing the printing speed has no adverse effects except for increasing the printing time. So don't want to risk printing failure, just reduce the printing speed. Don't be afraid to slow down when you want to print complex or detailed models.